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- LIVING, Page 56What This Country Needs Is A Good $5 Cigar
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- By JAMES WILLWERTH/LAGUNA NIGUEL
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- Behind closed doors at the sumptuous Ritz-Carlton hotel
- in seaside Laguna Niguel, Calif., a string quartet played Bach
- as 157 men in black tie -- and three elegantly dressed women --
- gathered around a long banquet table to indulge in their shared
- passion. Among them were company presidents, politicians,
- entertainment celebrities and Marine Corps generals. The
- champagne, lobster ravioli, rare filet mignon and ripe cheeses
- they savored were but pleasant distractions from the evening's
- true purpose. Sealed from the hotel lobby and society's
- opprobrium beyond, these "lovers of the leaf" were happily
- turning the air blue with the smoke from their premium cigars.
-
- A good cigar was an accessory of manly success for at
- least a century. Prominent puffers included Winston Churchill,
- Al Capone, Groucho Marx, Jack Kennedy, even Sigmund Freud and
- Vladimir Lenin. Then came the 1964 Surgeon General's report on
- the perils of smoking and a sea change in American attitudes
- toward tobacco that eventually pushed sales into a steady
- decline. Cigar fans faced not only dirty glares but also signs
- and waiters telling them to butt out of public places.
-
- But premium cigars have somehow remained aloof and lately
- have been staging a clandestine comeback. High-priced brands
- are selling at twice the levels they were 15 years ago.
- According to the Cigar Association of America, annual sales of
- cigars costing $1.25 or more have jumped from 50 million in 1974
- to 100 million.
-
- Much of this success can be explained by the same
- demographic phenomenon that has helped so many other luxury
- products: the emerging class of wealthy baby boomers who have
- apparently concluded that fine cigars complement the country
- house and the wine collection. And as luxuries go, even the
- classiest cigars are a lot more affordable than, say, a new BMW.
- In addition to the boomers is a core group of veteran smokers
- who simply like the rich experience a good cigar provides them.
-
- While the general public and the Surgeon General still
- hold their nose, savvy marketing men have taken note of this
- trend. Marvin Shanken, publisher of the successful Wine
- Spectator, plans to launch a quarterly magazine, Cigar
- Aficionado, and fill it with ratings, taste tests and snob
- appeal. What evidence does he have that it will succeed? "I'd
- like to tell you I did serious market research," he admits. "But
- I'm a cigar lover. I just decided to do it and hoped I could
- find 20,000 guys out there like me."
-
- Preliminary data suggest numbers that are even better.
- About 38% of upscale cigar buyers are also millionaires. Better
- than 4 out of 5 own at least two cars; nearly two-thirds
- collect antiques; 60% wear a $500-plus watch, while 90% traveled
- abroad in the past year. This type of demographics can lure a
- lot of upscale advertisers.
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- The cigar's lineage goes all the way back to Christopher
- Columbus, whose sailors took a liking to West Indian tobacco,
- rolled into palm or maize leaf, which they then took back home.
- Spanish nobles picked up the habit, and merchants spread it to
- the rest of Europe. By some accounts, Spain took more wealth out
- of the New World in tobacco than in gold and silver. In the
- American colonies, the cigar became a symbol of winner-take-all
- capitalism and flinty frontier grit.
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- While tobacco was the cash crop of choice in many parts of
- the New World, 20th century smokers singled out Cuba as the
- prestige producer of quality cigars. When the U.S. placed an
- embargo on Castro's communist economy in 1962, the forbidden
- Cuban premiums took on mythical qualities. For the truly devout,
- the mythic Cuban cigar has a heavy and rich aromatic taste that
- generally milder and sweeter cigars from the Dominican Republic,
- Honduras and Jamaica cannot match.
-
- Sadly, Cuban cigars fell victim over the years to
- socialist mismanagement. The island's wrapping handicraft
- declined, and its tobacco fields produced inferior leaf because
- they were no longer properly fertilized or allowed sufficient
- time to lay fallow. So uneven is the yield that two years ago,
- Switzerland's Davidoff company, which profited handsomely for
- decades from Fidel Castro's crop, pulled up its Cuban stakes.
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- Cigars have a tobacco "filler," an internal "binder" and
- an outside "wrapper." Low-priced stogies are made of chopped
- tobacco filler, machine wrapped with rolled sheets of pulverized
- leaf, water and natural gums. Around 2.3 billion machine-made
- cigars are sold in the United States, down from 9 billion in
- 1964, when Americans briefly substituted cheap cigars for
- cigarettes in the wake of the Surgeon General's report.
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- Premium cigars, unlike machine-made cigars, are
- constructed of whole tobacco leaf compressed by hand into the
- "long" filler, which is held together by whole-leaf binders and
- wrappers. Serious smokers debate tobacco blends and cigar
- construction almost as passionately as wine lovers worry about
- tannin content. Consolidated Cigar executive vice president
- Richard L. Dimeola offers some tips to the novice: if it draws
- too easily, it was "underfilled," and the air pockets will cause
- a fast burn and a hot smoke. If possible, check the cigarmaker's
- "leaf inventory." If the company isn't stocking enough tobacco
- to skip a bad harvest, its smokes will be uneven over time.
-
- Secure as they are among their own kind, cigar worshippers
- must suffer in a world increasingly hostile to their habit.
- Even if you're smoking a good cigar, observes Dunhill executive
- Dickson Farrington, "you can't walk into a store in New York off
- the street or get into a cab. I've heard about company
- presidents whose wives won't let them smoke at home, so they
- volunteer to walk the dog." The standoff probably suits both
- sides. Endangered male traditions continue to endure behind
- closed doors, allowing the rest of the world to breathe easier.
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